Sunday, December 25, 2011

To the ellies!


So, having spent most of yesterday focused on the elephants, it makes me want to write more about this park. I’ve mentioned it before, that there are big time supporters of the park, including Bob Barker (yes, that’s right- from the Price is Right!) and Hilary Clinton. The survival of the park depends on donations from the public. They have adopt an elephant programs, feed an elephant donation  packages, a gift shop, and daily tourist groups who help feed the elephants. It takes a huge staff to run this place (I think I mentioned 200 before?).

There are dozens and dozens of elephant trekking camps in Thailand- camps where the mahouts are still using hooks on their elephants, and they are using really uncomfortable seats for riding on the elephants- that sometimes cut the elephants, and certainly, aren’t good for them. Despite an elephant’s size, it is actually quite hard on their back to support the weight of a human in the middle of their back. Sometimes, riding on the neck (directly over the frong legs) is at least better, given that the weight can be directed down to the ground.

So, at the Elephant Nature Park, the elephants each have their own mahout, who guides tham around for the day. Most of these animals have suffered abuses in their past- almost all have been hit repeatedly, some are blind, some have had their feet blown off from a land mine, and there are a couple with broken hips. These animals haven’t lived freely in the wild for a long time (there is one grandma here who is 85 years old, and I’m told there is another even older!). The sanctuary is a wonderfully safe place for these animals- their mahouts get them early in the morning, and there are routines- some go for training with Michelle first thing in the morning (see yesterday’s entry for more on that), while others go to roam the fields. There is a river to swim in, mud baths, sand dunes, and all the food a hungry ellie could desire. The only thing that is missing is actual jungle & mountains, which would be more true to the real habitat of the elephants, but many of these guys would perish in such a setting at this point in their life, given how long they have been in captivity.

So, the training Michelle does is critical to help these elephants lose their fear of humans, sometimes of other elephants, of dogs, and of being hit. She is using positive reinforcement training an long sticks (not to hit the, but to guide and direct them) , and it’s a wonderful thing to see. She trains them to allow her to touch and pinch their ears- she pinches the ear while having the elephant stand still (and feeding it) so that in the event of requiring a needle in the future, the elephant will allow someone to touch his/her ear. It’s marvellous, really!

And as Michelle said yesterday, while everyone here would prefer to see these animals in the wild, it’s not a reality for most of these ellies, so this is a really good alternative. There are busloads of tourists who come and spend a week or even a day with the ellies- they feed them, bathe them, scoop their poop, and watch them in the mudbath. While there’s a part of me who cringes from the tourist part of it, I also understand how critical it is to keep bringing people to the park to allow them this really powerful experience, to see how humanely the animals at the park are treated, and hopefully, to either get donations or return trips from people after having such a positive immersion. This ain’t no African safari trip- it’s a sanctuary where the animals are truly revered, and really well cared for.

Darrick & Lek have acreage in Cambodia (something like 10.000 acres) and the goal is to have elephants living in the wild there on that property. And in yesterday’s entry, there was a short snippit about some land here in Thailand where they hope to release a few elephants. So, whilc most of these elephants won’t live in the wild, they do have plans for some elephants (and other animals, such as tigers and gibbons) to be released in the wild. 

I love that Darrick and Lek are in this setting, and that they have a supportive team around them. It's a lot of hard work, but with quite rewarding moments. 



Look at them, getting all dirty and revelling in it!

So fun to watch them play!

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Happy Christmas!

The start of our ellie day!
Isaac & Lek- adorable!


It's Christmas Day here, 12 hours ahead of home- so we're easing into our Christmas morning, drinking coffee on this lovely deck, with the sun peeking up over the mountains. I'm wearing a T-shirt and long sleeved shirt, but know that soon, it will be too warm for both shirts.

Yesterday we went with Darrick to see one of their properties- 150 acres that is destined to become home to a few elephants who will live in the wild. 
They are in the process of replanting trees in some sections, and have a great nursery there. Antoinette is overseeing this project, and she is a lovely person.
There is an earthblock building on the site that was largely built by volunteers and non-builders, and it's really sweet.
The house is set high up and then there is a path through the jungle down to the river.
Cool elephants sculpted onto walls, and the tree is a glass mosaic. 
Yet another beautiful bit of paradise in this lovely country.

Christmas Eve is the big celebration here in Thailand (like in Haiti)...or at least, here at the park, it was. They had a big meal planned, and all of the staff from the park came with their families to join in. Several different groups performed, including the mahouts. It was a whole bunch of fun- we went out onto the elephant field afterwards for a campfire. Oh, and Ainslie & I had a REAL bottle of wine- our first since coming to Thailand. They sell a rather sweet 'wine cooler' here at the park, and some watered down beer, so pickings have been slim. Steph went into town yesterday and picked up wine- we had Australian Yellow Tail, for a mere $30++ for the bottle. Very expensive. It was our Christmas present to one another. Very worth it!

We were talking the other day, and we realised that despite the fact that we're here at an elephant park, we've barely spent any time with the elephants, so we vowed that Christmas Day would be our day with the elephants. And that's what we've done. They are delightful creatures to watch- playful, adept, resourceful, fun, adorable, and strong.
Look, it's me, ma- I'm feeding the ellies on a rare occasion that I don't have my head behind the camera!

We went to visit Michelle, their elephant trainer, as she worked with the elephants, one at a time.
 She was using clicker training, and all positive reinforcement training with them. It was so interesting to listen to her speak of the training, the progress they have made with even the most abused of their elephants.
They train the elephants to raise their legs and rest them at various heights- this is so that they are comfortable with people working on their feet if they get sores, but also, since they are now living on flat land, and are accustomed to living in the mountains, they aren't working those muscle groups as much. 
 She is fascinated with the work she does, and so loves what she is doing- I love when people are passionate about the work they do.

 We went to the water to help 'bathe' the elephants (which involves throwing buckets of water onto their backs). This is a favourite tourist activity- the elephants love to cool down in the water.

3 Thomson boys...playing with fresh ellie poo!

 At some point they were having their daily mud bath in a large mud puddle- oh my gosh, but it's so fun to watch them. I took hundreds of photos, but also took my eyes away from the lens to just sit back and enjoy. You can't help but giggle just watching them slide their behinds on the muddy bottom for relief, climb on top of one another, and just love being in the water.
This one was throwing mud onto her back after coming out of the mud.

We also went to the 'hospital' (across the field) to visit Meadow and the other elephants that have to stay there. Meadow's story is quite a sad one- she has a broken hip & ankle- she was kept in a cage and tied up, and force bred- whereby on one occasion a bull broke her hip when mating with her. Poor thing!

Look how misshapen her body is!


Finally, we went down to the swimming hole with Lek and a group of elephants to watch them swim, splash, go to the other shore and eat greenery.


This year's Christmas is quite a contrast with last year's- last Christmas Eve I was boogying away in a crowded Haitian nightclub, and Christmas Day I went to visit orphans at one of the internally displaced persons' camps- which was a really powerful and amazing experience which I'll never forget...

and this year, I've been surrounded by elephants. I think we'll definitely squeeze in a bit more elephant time in our next couple of days, before heading to a beach.


Joyeux Noel, tout le monde!

Friday, December 23, 2011

Market day!

Thursday we went out on another outing- Phom (sp?- pronounced Pomme), one of the main movers & shakers here at the park, goes to a nearby market on Thursdays to get food for the park and the elephants, and she took us with her, where we met Darrick & Lek. The food market was what I was expecting the Spice Market in Istanbul to be (but was disappointed): large quantities of bulk grains, spices, ginger, garlic, onions, fresh produce, in addition to some fried foods for sale.

I love market life, I love going to places where you can see lots of people, life, and how people really live. It was quite an extraordinary experience, actually- Lek is quite a barterer, so she went from vendor to vendor and purchased gigantic quantities of food- we would come along, pick up the bags and carry them to the truck, and go back and there would be many more large bags of produce ready for pick-up. Squash, tomatoes, greens, potatoes, ginger, and so! much more was purchased. She bought a large (say, 5 pound bag?) of spirolina- for half a dollar! Two pick up trucks full of produce cost less than $150 US- incredible! I loved this adventure, and appreciate the fact that they invited us to join them.

 On our way home, Lek wanted to stop by some property really close to the market- some property that was for sale- I can't remember how many acres- maybe 27? In any case, they were considering purchasing it, for agricultural land where they could grow all of the food for the elephants. I'm pretty sure that Lek bought it (verbal agreement) while we were there, but I have misunderstood other things that have happened here thus far.


Darrick & Ian looking at the plans for the prospective property.
the boys!


I love how they are striving for self sufficiency for both the animals, and for people here at the park- and I believe they'll arrive there. They are both really ambitious, and Lek seems to be a really killer businesswoman, so together, I think most anything is possible for these two.

So, thanks to Darrick & Lek for this most exciting trip to market!



Lek was showing Isaac the cicadas that are for sale- mmmmm, yum yum!

O love this hat!

Many vendors, all colourful, all lovely

Ginger....!!!

Right back to Haiti!


The whole family comes to market

I love this shot of Lek with the family in the background!

Oh, even more ginger!


OK, I'll fess up- I really wanted a photo of the person who wore their PJ's to the market, so I asked the clan to pose there. Cheap, I know!

Not anything to do with our outing, bur a very cool spider that Isaac spotted in a web right by the dining room. It looks as though it's on that building in the background...

The beautiful woman from whom Lek bought the spirolina.

Lek, doing some hard bargaining from the knife guy. Who also sold many lethal (and banned at home) weapons!


Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Temples and big wood: a very satisfying day



The front entrance to a temple

















On Wednesday, we went to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep to visit an important pilgrimage temple in the mountains outside of Chiang Mai. I think Darrick & Lek are worried that we have spent most of our time building the sauna rather than trekking about, so Darrick had a couple of his guys continue laying bricks, and they had a driver come to pick us up in the morning.
A cool timber frame at the temple



Unfortunately, I didn’t really know much about the temple prior to going, but I can certainly say I was I awe of the detail to the buildings. There was, unfortunately, a sense of touristy kitch, with all of the vendors just outside of the temple, including velvet paintings!
Intricate carvings

The afternoon was spectacularly interesting- we met Darrick for lunch (and had the best cup of coffee we’ve had since we’ve been in Thailand), and then Darrick wanted to take us to see really good wood sculpture and carvings. His driver took us to more of a touristy place first- with lots of knick-knacks, but we found a few interesting stores, including some amazing hammered metal art work. There was a piece that was being worked on while we were there, tools lying on it, so I couldn’t help myself but take a photo. The metal is mounted onto a wooden mould, and then hammered and shaped.

Then we found the ‘real’ big wood stores that Darrick was intending on showing us- where we found gigantic slabs of wood seasoning in the yard (sadly, Darrick said they are probably cut down illegally- it is against the law to cut trees in Thailand!), and then inside the stores, there is furniture & cool pieces made from the big slabs.
One large slab of wood, for this gorgeous table. Pity about the tree!
 There were interesting sculptures made of driftwood, and all kinds of eye candy. We couldn’t help but oooh and ahhhhh over the beautiful pieces- and I think the prices were pretty reasonable although I can’t really recall what they were!
A really beautiful table, and the slabs in behind are benches.

Our next stop was at what they labeled a ‘stoneware’ (I think they said 'stonewear') place- and in the front yard, there were all kinds of really large clay pots- which were lovely and all, but when we walked to the back, we really started having fun- there was the shop, and at the front were several moulds for the pots- which we thought was cool enough, and then as we walked through, we were tickled to find two large brick kilns inside. They are beautiful, and must be able to hold quite a lot of stock. There were two craftspeople at the back shaping clay into the moulds by hand, and then trimming them with a really simple tool.
Inside the kiln
Some of the many moulds for the clay pots
We also found their mixer, which was really clever, and after it mixes the clay, it extrudes it into bricks of clay. Ainslie thought maybe Darrick could create a version of this for his earth blocks…soon after that, the woman from the store came and told us her boss didn’t want us to take photos of their mixer, nor did she want us to be back there. So, we went on our way.

A few other stops to see yet more wood carvings- oh, but what a treat that was! My photos from one place didn’t work at all (they told me I couldn’t take photos- but then again, they told us that at several shops, and we did manage to sneak a few in)- this place had exquisite, multi-layered carvings- unbelievably intricate and stunning. Mind boggling, really!

Oh yes, we stopped at one place that had ‘pre-fab’ homes- for $45,000 USD, you can have the smaller one built & erected on site, and for $200,000, the larger one- it’s embarrassing to think of what shoddy work you might get back home for those prices!
Inside the $200,000 pre-fab home
Front of the prefab home- nothing like we've got at home for pre-fab!

At the end of the day we went to the night market with the goal of finding footwear for me (it has become more of a mission for everyone else, moreso than me- I’m used to my lousy footwear now!). In any case, we only found flip flops, not workboots, so that didn’t really pan out, but it was a great excuse to see all of the little carts that come out at night for the market. I love going to places where the streets really come alive at night, where there is colour, and sound, and life. We bought a few little things, and Ian pointed out some really good quality backpacks that would sell for more than $200 CAD that were only $40  or so. I didn’t get one, but it’s a good place to go if you’re in the market for one!

A carving that was discarded on the floor of a shop- beautiful in my eyes!
It was a terrific day. We kept our driver out late…it was at least a 12 hour day for him, so we made sure to give him a mighty big tip. And, rock stars that we are, the kitchen staff brought us our dinner as soon as we arrived- we’re so spoiled, honestly!

This was truly a fun day- thanks, Darrick, for taking time out of your really busy schedule to play with us!


A very cool looking car that was in front of one of the high end furniture stores. 



Quite a load to carry on a motorcycle!






Street market at night



Another view of the many vendors  at the night market